The Full Story: A Cheap And Sturdy Work Bench For About $20

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

The Materials:

The materials used for this project: Four 8' 2x4's One partial 2x4, about 6' long. Two large pieces of OSB (Oriented Strand Board). I used scraps recovered from job sites. One piece was 7/16" thick, and one just happened to be 5/8" thick. 3" Deck Screws 1-5/8" Deck Screws

Note on OSB Thickness:  I have made several work benches like this one. Most have used 7/16" thick OSB for the top and bottom shelves. Heavier OSB won't hurt, of course, but just costs more with questionable benefit.

I would never use 1/4" OSB for a work bench. It just is not strong enough, and is not much cheaper than 7/16" OSB.

Cutting The OSB:

The first thing I did was to lay some 2x4's across two saw horses and place the OSB on top.

I often use a 4' level for drawing lines. This method is easier and more precise than using a chalk line.

The level used here is a product called a "Tri-Level" from Sears, which cost about $15. One edge is triangular-shaped and has a ruler scale.

I cut the OSB to the desired width. In this case, the smallest of the two scraps of OSB was about 26" x 48", so my goal was to make two pieces the same size. If I was using a new, full sheet of OSB, (that is, if  I ran out of plywood scraps), I would cut two 24" x 48" pieces from the 4' x 8' panel, leaving enough for another work bench.  Many stores sell 4' x 4' panels and 2' x 4' panels.

Cutting The 2x4's:

I used a power miter saw to cut the 2x4's, because it is faster, easier, and safer than using a circular saw.  This tool is the best $150 I have ever spent.

For laying out the cuts I used a tape measure, a red pen and a "speed square".

Cutting The Legs:

I marked an 8' 2x4 at exactly 32" and 64". This board will give me 3 legs, each just under 32".

Only for the legs:  I align the cut so the middle of the blade was on the line. (Normally I align the mark with one side of the blade.)

Why?  Because 8' 2x4's are normally exactly 96" long.  (10', 12' etc. lumber is usually about 1 inch longer than specified.)  Since the saw blade is about 3/32" thick, I will lose a significant amount of material due to the blade thickness. I don't care if the table legs are not exactly 32" long, but I do care if they are not all the same length.

Maybe using one 10 foot long 2x4, cut into four legs exactly 30" long, would be the smartest  choice. 

With the miter saw, cutting takes only a few minutes.

Assembling The Side Frames:

The overall dimensions of the frame:

	I marked the legs 6" above the floor.
	The sides are laid on top of the legs, forming a rectangle. The lower side stretcher is aligned with the red line mentioned above.

	I arranged the pieces so the corners were close to being square.
	Then I drilled one hole at each corner.

I drove one 3" deck screw into each corner.

I checked the diagonal measurements.

They were within 1/8". Close, but not good enough for me.

	So I tapped the frame lightly, to shift it a little. I held the lower part down with my foot.
	The squared-up side frame.

	Then I drove in three more screws for each joint.
	Due to poor planning, I almost ran out of 3" screws, so I used some 2-1/2" Ardox (spiral) nails.

Assembling The Ends:

	After the side frames were completed, I turned them over and stood an end stretcher upright, and then fastened it with deck screws. I used the Speed Square to maintain a right angle.
	The side with two end stretchers attached. The other side looked exactly the same.

Assembling The Two Halves:

	I turned each half upside-down and placed them together.
	I used a Quick-Grip clamp to hold the lumber while driving the deck screws.

	Then I flipped the unit over and connected the top components.
	The completed frame.

Details: Note how the corners are joined. This type of over-lapping 2x4 joint is quite strong. Pre-drilling the holes helps prevent splitting of the wood, which is common when nailed or screwed near the end.

Installing The Shelves:

	I placed the top piece of OSB on the frame and attached it with 1-5/8" deck screws. I spaced the screws about 8" apart.
	An aerial view.

The work bench with the top shelf attached.

The bottom shelf required a notch at each corner, to fit around the legs. The notches are a little bigger than 3" x 5".

	Note the orientation of the notches: The 5" dimension is along the long side of the panel.
	I tilted the OSB panel to get it in place. Fortunately it fit properly on the first try. In the past I have had to cut the notches slightly larger because the shelf would not fit the first time. Cutting them 1/8" to 1/4" bigger seems to be a fair compromise.

The bottom shelf was also attached with 1-5/8" deck screws.

The completed work bench.

This is the 8th work bench I have built using this design. Every one has been a different size, because each was made using materials on hand. Typically the dimensions of the plywood shelves dictates the work bench size.

• One has been narrow, only 18" wide
• One has been quite long, 68" x 24", to support a wood lathe that weighs 150 pounds. This bench has extra stretchers between the side rails.
• Several have been made entirely of recycled lumber.
• One bench used recycled 2x4's for the top, instead of plywood or OSB.
• I routinely stand on these workbenches to reach lumber stored overhead. I find the design to be the sturdiest I have seen, for the cost and level of simplicity.
• I believe this structure is adequate for standing on because:  1.) The weight is distributed on the equivalent of four studs, and 2.) 7/16" OSB is acceptable for roof sheathing when the trusses are spaced 24" on center. The surface is a little springy, but it will certainly hold the weight of a typical person.
• On one of these benches I installed two electrical outlets. View that article.

Copyright © 1999, 2005  HammerZone.com

Written December 3, 1999
Revised January 4, 2005