|
In
This Article:
Previously stained shelves
and sides are connected together by drilling special low-angle
holes. |
Related
Articles:
|
|
Skill Level:
2-3 (Basic to Intermediate)
|
Time Taken:
2 Hours
|
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
I had some old 1x12 knotty pine lumber in the basement, which a
previous owner had used for some inexpensive shelving. Since we are
always in dire need of storage space for books and magazines,
I decided to build a small 2-shelf bookcase.
In fact, there was enough material for three small book shelf
units. This was the first one.
Cutting And Finishing The Shelves And Components:
My first task was to cut the 1x12 planks to length. As with a lot
of my wacky ideas, I designed the project to fit the material
available. I started with a selection of boards that were around 5
feet long. I made 2 sides, 2 shelves, and one top. Each piece was
just about half the length of my available planks.
The top was different from the other boards. I bought a few feet
of 3/4" shelf cap molding, made from poplar. I glued and nailed
the shelf cap to the front and side edges. I also bought a sheet of
1/4" thick Lauan plywood, which will provide enough material to
make the back panels for three shelf units. This Lauan plywood was
soft, and I found that I could cut it with a sharp knife and a
drywall T-square. No saw required.
I also ripped a small strip of pine for the front toe-kick, and
some small scraps for shelf cleats.
After the boards were cut to size, I sanded them with a
random-orbital sander, and stained them with Minwax No. 215 Red Oak
stain. I finished the wood with 2 coats of a satin oil-based
urethane. Except for the shelf cap, there was no glue used in
assembly, just screws.
 |
The shelf components after being stained and
finished.
I normally stain and urethane woodworking projects after
assembly. But that approach has some drawbacks, such as
difficulty getting into corners. I just wanted to try a
different approach to see if it worked.
|
Needed: A Good Work Bench
 |
Assembling any large woodworking project
requires a sturdy work surface. I often use a pair of folding
metal sawhorses and a home-made table top (7/16" OSB
screwed to a 2x2 frame).
I laid a piece of carpeting remnant on the work bench, to
protect the finished woodwork.
|
 |
The Secret Ingredient:
|
The key to this project was the Kreg
Pocket Hole Jig
kit.
Amazon.com sells several different kits. I bought the lowest
price kit... the higher priced kits are good for higher-volume
production work.
|
 |
|
You just position the jig at the end of the
board (on the back side) and lock the Vise-Grip in place.
|
 |
 |
The kit also came with a special step-drill bit,
which makes a large diameter flat-bottomed hole with a smaller
pilot hole.
|
|
The step bit has a stop collar that stops the
drill at the desired depth. Setting up the stop collar took a
few minutes, but does not need to be done often.
|
 |
I bought the Kreg Rocket Pocket Hole Jig kit in 2001 for about $55 from a
woodworking catalog. Amazon now sells
several Kreg Pocket Hole kits
at similar or better prices than other woodworking catalogs.
 |
With the jig clamped in place, I just drilled
away. This was too easy!
|
|
The resulting holes were uniform and precise.
|
 |
 |
Looking into the holes, you can see the
flat-bottomed part where the screw head rests.
|
|
On the underside of the bottom shelf I made
three pocket holes.
|
 |
 |
On the back side of the toe-kick I also made
some holes directed up to the bottom shelf. Here I drove in
the special screws to attach the toe-kick to the bottom shelf.
The long square-drive screwdriver bit was supplied with the
Kreg kit. |
 |
The Kreg kit came with a couple dozen of these
special screws. They have a self-drilling point and a pan
head.
Kreg says to avoid flat-head screws (such as this drywall
screw) because it may split the wood. But I did use these
drywall screws in other places.
|
 |
|
The bottom assembly, which is just the bottom
shelf with the front and back toe kicks.
|
 |
 |
The front toe-kick was inset about 1 inch. Note
the pocket holes in the bottom of the shelf. These will
connect with the sides of the bookshelf.
|
|
On the side panels, I measured the location of
the middle shelf. I made the lower shelf space a little taller
than the upper shelf (about 13") to accommodate large
books.
|
 |
 |
I secured two cleats to each side panel. These
are just 1x1 scraps of pine. I used 1-1/4" drywall screws
in pre-drilled and countersunk holes.
|
|
I attached the bottom section to the side
panels.
It can be quite a trick to keep the large components even
and square while the fasteners are installed. A flat workbench
helps. Sometimes I do assembly of large components on the
garage floor. |
 |
 |
The assembly so far.
At this stage, the shelf unit is somewhat fragile and needs
to be handled carefully.
|
|
I installed the middle shelf next. If I did this
last, it's possible that I might not have enough room.
|
 |
 |
Since the side panels were slightly warped, I
used a pair of pipe clamps to squeeze the sides together.
|
|
After installing the middle shelf, I installed
the top shelf using 1-1/4" drywall screws. I held the top
in place with a C-clamp to prevent it from slipping.
Note the contoured edge of the top shelf. This is the shelf
cap trim that I mentioned earlier.
|
 |
 |
Almost done. All I need to do is install the back panel.
|
 |
I set the assembly face down on the carpeted
workbench. I laid the back panel on the shelf unit. I
discovered that the back panel was not big enough. There was a
gap at the top (red arrow) even when the panel was not quite
overlapping the bottom shelf.
|
 |
This flaw was my own fault. I originally planned on using 1x4 for
the toe kick, but I later decided to just rip in half a piece of
lumber that I found in the shop. The result was about ½"
narrower than my original plan required, so I ended up with more
shelf height, but the back panel (which was cut earlier) was too
short.
Planning ahead is fine... just don't change your plans.
|
My solution was to install a piece of 1x1 pine
along the back of the underside of the top shelf. It was
nearly impossible to see this piece of wood when the shelf
unit was done.
|
 |
 |
I pre-drilled about 20 holes around the
perimeter of the back panel, and installed small sheet metal
screws (#6 x 3/4" long).
|
 |
The completed shelf unit.
The bottom shelf's height is a little more than the shelf
above. This is to accommodate large items like this portfolio,
which doesn't fit in most of our other book shelves.
|
 |
 |
I rather like this little project, considering
it's made mostly from junk wood that almost got thrown away.
It's not quite "making a silk purse from a sow's
ear", but close.
|
I think next time I build such a shelf unit, I will assemble
everything except the back panel, do the staining and finishing, and
then attach the back.
|
Tools
Used:
|
Materials Used:
- Lumber, 1x12, approx. 14
lineal feet
- Lauan Plywood
- Pocket Screws, 1¼",
1½"
- Drywall Screws, 1¼"
- Sheet Metal Screws, #6 x
3/4"
|
Back To Top
Of Page
Search
Page
Home
What's New Project
Archives H.I.
World
Rants
Contact Us
|
|
