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Old
House Remodeling:
Replacing A Window -
Part 2
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| In
This Article:
The window is placed in the
opening, adjusted until level, plumb and square, and nailed.
The trim is installed over the nailing flange, then caulked
and painted. |
Related
Articles:
|
| Skill Level:
3-4 (Intermediate - Advanced) |
Time Taken:
12 Hours |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
View Part 1 - Preparing
The Rough Opening.
Finally - Installing The Window !
The window we installed was an Andersen Tilt-Wash double-hung
vinyl-clad wood window. It measured about 30" wide and 64"
tall.
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The window was set in the opening and adjusted so that the
distance from window to the edge of the siding was the same on
both left and right sides. Then one nail was driven in at a
top corner (red arrow).
The sides were checked for plumb. |
 |
Please forgive us for cheating!!! We installed the window
completely and then went back to snap some pictures that roughly
depict the installation process. We did not have enough staff on
this job to shoot photos and install the window at the same
time.
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The top and bottom were checked for level.
The diagonals were measured and compared. |
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Making sure the window is square is probably the single most
important step in window installation. An out-of-square window may
not open properly and may not seal properly.
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Once the window was square, we drove in nails (1-3/4"
galvanized roofing nails) every 6" to 8".
The recommended nail spacing ends up using every other hole
in the nailing strip. |
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The actual window installation procedure took about 15 minutes.
The vast majority of the time on this, and most similar jobs, is
devoted to preparing the window opening and completing the trim.
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We omitted the nailing flange at the bottom. Instead, the
window rested on the original sill. We placed a heavy bead of
caulk along this joint to ensure a good seal.
We slid a strip of blue foam sill-seal insulation under the
edge of the siding. |
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This sill insulation is intended to be placed on top of a
concrete or masonry foundation, before the wood sill plate is
installed. It deforms to the rough concrete surface and forms an
air-tight bond that prevents cold air infiltration. It has nothing
to do with window sills, but the product can be used in many places.
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The top section of trim was installed. The board had to be
notched to fit around the window frame.
Getting the board to slide under the awning brackets was
quite a feat. |
Next, the side trim pieces were installed, after being ripped to
a slightly narrower width.
When the trim was installed, we caulked all gaps including:
- Between the window vinyl-clad frame and the window trim.
- Between the window trim and the clapboard siding.
- Between the window trim and the awning support brackets.
- Any place where rain could get behind the siding.
During these tasks the sun went down, so we were unable to take
any photos.
The next day we painted the trim and the siding next to the
window.
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The ladders and extension plank, along with the awning
above the window, seemed to make a good support for a tarp.
The weather in October can get quite chilly here, too cold for
latex paint to dry properly.
So we hung a tarp over the work area and painted all around
the window with a good quality exterior paint. |
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By simply opening the window just installed, and firing up a
small kerosene heater in the room, the temperature under the tarp
quickly climbed to around 75 degrees, even though outside it was
struggling to make 50 !
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After the paint had dried...
...everything looked so much better. |
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|
The completed window, with the screen installed.
Compare the new, second-story window with the century-old
unit directly below. The most noticeable difference is caused
by the screen on the new window. |
 |
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The view out of the new window is much better, much
clearer, than the old window. And the new window does not
rattle in the breeze or let the cold wind pass through.
A serious and lasting improvement that maintains the
house's original design intention without sacrificing comfort,
convenience, or energy efficiency. |
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Tools
Used:
- Basic Carpentry Tools
- Reciprocating Saw
- Table Saw
- Belt Sander
- Extension Ladders (2)
- Ladder Jacks (2)
- Extension Plank
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Materials Used:
- Andersen 400 Series
Tilt-Wash Double-Hung Window
- 2" Roofing Nails
- Flashing Material
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