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Old
House Remodeling:
Replacing A Window -
Part 1
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| In
This Article:
Old window sashes are
removed, the jamb cut away, the old sill reconditioned and the
rough opening is prepared. |
Related
Articles:
|
| Skill Level:
3-4 (Intermediate to Advanced) |
Time Taken:
12 Hours |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
This article explains how an old window was removed and replaced
with a "new construction" type of vinyl-clad
window. Replacing an old window with a "remodel" type
of window would be different.
Preparing The Opening:
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The original window had an ugly aluminum storm window that
rattled in the wind and leaked badly.
On the inside, the window was deteriorated beyond repair.
The lower sash was difficult to open. The previous owner had
filled around the sash with expanding foam, in a lame attempt
to stop the drafts that plague this old house during the windy
Northern Michigan winters. |
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We removed the trim that held the lower sash in place.
The lower sash just fell forward after the trim pieces were
removed. |
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Many old windows simply let the sash slide in a wood channel,
which swells in the summer and sticks. Plus, countless coats of
paint inevitably interfere with the sliding ability. The original
design is inferior, plain and simple. It worked in 1900 because wood
was the only widely available and affordable material.
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Getting the top sash out meant sliding it all the way down,
which required a hammer, and removing a thin strip of wood.
The aluminum storm window frame was removed. |
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We pulled all visible nails from the sill. |
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And now the fun part... We took our reciprocating saw and
cut all the nails around the jamb.
Then we cut between the jamb and the outer window trim, to
sever all the nails that held the window unit together. |
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As far as we could tell, this window was installed as a pre-hung
unit, as opposed to being fabricated on-site or in a carpenter's
shop. We base our claim on the uniformity of the wood components,
the fact that many of the other windows in this house look
identical, and the similarity to other pre-fabricated windows from
the first half of the 20th century.
Our goal was to salvage all of the exterior, visible wood
components and re-use them with the new window.
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When all the nails were cut, the jamb was removed.
We paused to take a photo of the jamb assembly, just before
the unit was unceremoniously hurled from the second-story
window. Then it went to the burn pile. |
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With the window frame removed, we were able to inspect the
condition of the structure.
A Bit Of Old House Anatomy:
- 1) Window exterior trim
- 2) 1x12 sheathing
- 3) Framing (stud)
- 4) Lath
- 5) Plaster
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The sill, which was attached to the window frame, now only
held in place by a few nails. We removed this piece to
re-finish it.
Removing the exterior window trim meant getting the awning
out of the way. Note how the awning brackets rest on the
vertical trim. |
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These decorative awnings are common on some older homes. We
wanted to avoid complete removal of the awning. After a thorough
inspection, we decided to try simply prying the awning up, leaving
the top attached (it has a metal flashing that goes under the
siding).
At this point we realized that working on ladders would require a
long reach. So we brought out the heavy artillery: the ladder jacks
and the extension plank. This equipment, while expensive, gives us
easy and safe access to almost any part of this two-story house.
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This photo shows the ladders and the wooden extension plank
(at the bottom of the window). The plank rests on special
brackets called ladder jacks, which hook onto two rungs of the
ladder.
We used a chisel to break the paint at the seam. |
 |
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After carefully prying up the brackets, we cut the nails
and inserted shims to keep them away from the wall.
With successive rounds of prying we managed to place a shim
above the window trim, keeping the lower part clear. |
 |
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We used a chisel to break the paint around the top trim.
A reciprocating saw was used to cut the nails that held the
trim in place. Note the wooden wedge below the saw. This keeps
a prying force applied and makes sawing easier. |
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Another view of cutting the nails that held the vertical
trim in place.
The top trim was cut free. |
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The trim was completely removed. The new window had a
nailing flange that needed a few inches of clear area around
the opening. Some replacement windows do not require
demolition this extensive.
The lower part of the window opening. |
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Making Improvements:
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We drove in 2" deck screws to provide a better bond
between the sheathing and the studs. We pre-drilled all the
holes. The entire task took 10 minutes.
We pried the ends of the siding away from the wall, so
later we could slide some form of flashing behind the siding. |
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The sill was completely coated with an epoxy wood
preservative and allowed to harden for several hours. Then it
was given a coat of oil-base primer.
The other window trim boards were sanded on a belt sander,
the nail holes were filled with epoxy, and then primed. |
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The sill was installed with 3-1/2" deck
screws. |
The Window Opening Was Complete...
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Tools
Used:
- Reciprocating Saw
- Basic Carpentry Tools
- Table Saw
- Belt Sander
- Extension Ladders (2)
- Ladder Jacks (2)
- Extension Plank
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Materials Used:
- Andersen 400 Series
Tilt-Wash Double-Hung Window
- 2" Roofing Nails
- Flashing Material
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