Includes some diagrams to illustrate how window and door openings are typically built.
We gutted the entire bathroom, framed the new window opening, and installed a new construction type of vinyl window. Then we filled in the old window opening and patched up the wood siding.
The old wood sashes are removed, the jambs are cut away from the wall, the sill is reconditioned and the rough opening is prepared.
The window is placed in the opening, adjusted until level, plumb and square, and nailed. The trim is installed over the nailing flange, then caulked and painted.
Andersen Tilt-Wash 400 Series windows are removed from the frames. The wood sashes are cleaned up and wood stain is applied with a sprayer. Urethane is applied before the sashes are replaced in the opening.
Andersen sells jamb extensions that are already milled to fit into the groove around their windows. Simply tap the jambs into place and drive nails in the pre-drilled holes.
To trim out a window with basic 2-1/4" casing, four pieces of casing are mitered and joined at the corners to make a box. Then the entire unit is nailed in place.
Many homes built around the turn of the 20th century have an elegant type of trim above the doors and windows. We re-created this ornate casing from common millwork.
After installing this new-construction window, I made the exterior trim from Azek cellular PVC instead of wood. No problems with paint peeling or water damage.
This simple wood frame was coated with urethane and covered with that stretch-film intended for one-time use. But these "interior storm windows" can be removed in the summer and replaced in the winter.
Quick n easy: Install the plastic end brackets and the middle support bracket, set the blinds in place and complete a few details.
Replacing a torn screen is surprisingly easy. Making sure the metal frame doesn't bend is the hard part.
While painting the house I discovered some soft and rotten wood on a window sill, so I cut our the bad wood and installed a new custom-cut window sill.