| In
This Article:
A freeze-proof outdoor faucet
is taken apart and the rubber washer is replaced. |
Related
Articles:
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| Skill Level:
2 (Basic) |
Time Taken:
About Half An Hour |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
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This faucet is actually turned off.
As you can see, it's not working properly. |
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| I kept this Y-splitter on the faucet all
summer. I had been leaving the faucet on, and I simply
shut off the water with the ball valves built into the
splitter. |
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But I can't keep doing this. The water inside the faucet will freeze
and expand, causing something to burst. After the pipes thaw,
the water will start running... it could be indoors or outdoors.
Taking chances with unprotected faucets in cold northern areas is
just plain stupid.
First: Turn Off The Water.
My house has old-fashioned globe valves upstream and
downstream of the water meter. I had to use a big pair
of Channel-Lock pliers to turn the valve.
Luckily, the valve actually shut off completely. |
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This is the back side of the
outdoor faucet.
I could tell that the faucet was the freeze-proof
deep-type because of the wide brass component that
separates the 1/2" copper pipe from the
larger-diameter pipe that extends through the wall. |
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| I used a big adjustable wrench to remove
the packing nut. The packing nut holds the inner
workings of the faucet in place. |
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I removed the valve stem. This was quite
long... about 12 inches. |
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| The business end of the outdoor faucet:
This is where the water gets shut off, and it's 12
inches deep in the wall. If everything is built
correctly, that point 12 inches inside the house will be
in a warm location, and the water in the pipe won't
freeze.
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I removed the screw that held the faucet
washer in place. |
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| I used a very small screwdriver to
carefully pry out the old washer. |
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The old washer is on the left, and a new
1/4" flat washer is on the right. |
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| Before installing the washer, I used a
toothpick to clean the pocket that the washer sat in.
Using a metal tool can gouge the brass surfaces, and
possibly cause another leak. |
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I tried to insert the new 1/4"
washer, but it was too tight. |
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| So I located a similar beveled washer
(seen on the right). |
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The beveled washer fit just fine.
I guess some knucklehead replaced a beveled washer
with a flat washer, and had to force it to fit. I'm
surprised that the wrong faucet washer worked at all.
|
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| I replaced the screw that held the washer
in place. |
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I applied some silicone grease to
the valve stem threads. This should help make the faucet
easier to turn. |
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| I inserted the valve stem into the faucet
body. |
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I also wrapped the outer threads with
Teflon tape. |
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Important:
The procedure for getting the valve stem back in
place is critical. There are TWO threaded pieces
that are being simultaneously tightened, and it's
possible to damage the valve.
When I inserted the valve stem, the stem hit
something before the packing nut could reach the
corresponding threads on the outside of the faucet body.
I partially closed the valve stem (by turning the
handle) about one turn clockwise and then the
packing nut could reach the valve body. Then I began
tightening the packing nut... but just a couple of
turns.
I had to back off the valve stem (by turning
the handle to open the faucet) while I continued to
tighten the packing nut. If I didn't back the valve stem
out, it could jam against the threads on the
inside of the valve body... way deep inside... possibly
breaking the soft brass threads and ruining the faucet.
The key is: You need to be able to turn the
faucet handle while the packing nut is being tightened.
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| Once the packing nut was hand tight, I
tightened it with the wrench. |
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I went inside and turned the water supply
back on. I let the water run for a few minutes to purge
any crud in the system. |
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| The moment of truth:
When I shut off the faucet it actually stopped
the water. Success!
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I replaced the fiberglass insulation in
the joist bay behind the faucet, being careful not to
cover up the inner-most end of the faucet... that's the
point where the water stops, and that area must be kept
on the warm side of the insulation. |
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More Info:
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Tools
Used:
- Adjustable
Wrench, 12"
- Flat-Blade
Screwdriver
- Pliers
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Materials
Used:
- Beveled
Faucet Washer
- Teflon
Tape
- Silicone
Grease
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