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| Skill Level:
2-3 |
Time Taken:
About an hour |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
Introduction:
Being made by the same company, Peerless and Delta single-handle
kitchen faucets use the same inner workings, at least that's been my
experience. These faucets use an innovative ball-on-a-stick device
to open and close passageways that let hot and cold water flow.
| Note that some Delta and Peerless single-handle
bath faucets use a similar design. The handle is attached
with a single screw under a cover plate, and the
ball-on-a-stick has a different design. |
 |
I closed the shut-off valves beneath the sink. |
 |
I loosened the set screw that holds the handle
in place. This requires a 1/8 inch Allen wrench.
The handle just slid off. |
 |
| The stick poking out the top is attached to the
ball.
The dome-shaped chrome piece holds the works together. It
is threaded onto the body of the faucet. |
 |
 |
The chrome-dome was really tight, so tight that
I needed a pipe wrench to remove it. |
 |
Then I remembered that the plastic ring adjacent
to the chrome-dome could be adjusted. This threaded ring has
four notches in it. I pushed on a notch with a screwdriver (I
had to tap the screw driver lightly with a hammer) to
relieve the force on the internal parts. |
| Then I was able to remove the chrome-dome with
the usual tool: a pair of Channel-Lock pliers.
Note how the 4-notched ring stays with the dome. It's
threaded in place and can be adjusted up or down to make the
innards looser or tighter. |
 |
 |
Sidebar - Alternative Design:
Note how this Delta faucet (late 1990's) has a large hex on
the top of the chrome-dome.
The older Peerless faucet in the other pictures has a knurled
section on the dome. Trouble is, that knurled part gets chewed
up by dis-assembling the faucet, and the little metal
fragments can cut your fingers. |
| I removed the next piece. I don't know if
there's a name for this piece of plastic. I call it "the
shield" because the opening is shaped like a shield. |
 |
 |
This piece has two components. The
black-and-white section seals the top of the ball.
The yellowish-colored piece (the "shield") clamps
the seal in place.
|
 |
If this seal leaks, water will trickle out from beneath the
faucet handle when the faucet is running. It's important to
inspect this seal for damage such as nicks or any irregularity in
the conical shape. I can't remember ever replacing one of these
seals, but I'm sure replacement parts are available,
Also, it helps to remove any buildup of hard water deposits.
Notice the light rust coloration on the white conical part. If it
gets too heavy, this buildup can interfere with the sealing ability
of the synthetic rubber parts. Often these deposits can be removed
by simply wiping them off, otherwise a quick soaking in a rust- or
lime-removing liquid such as CLR, Lime-Away, vinegar, lemon juice,
or (supposedly) even Coca-Cola, which contains phosphoric acid.
 |
I removed the ball.
It just lifts straight out.
|
| Note the long hole in the side of the ball. This
prevents the ball from rotating during use, yet still allows a
certain range of motions. |
 |
 |
It's a good idea to inspect the underside of the
ball to make sure that the surface is clean and smooth. If the
metal appears worn around the holes (you might see a brass
color beneath the plating, or a pattern of scratch marks) then
replacing the ball would be advised. Replacements can be
bought for less than $10, though genuine Delta parts probably
cost more. |
 |
Inside The Faucet Body:
The black "donuts" are the seals that ride
against the ball. These seals have springs behind them
that push them against the ball.
These seals are (from my experience) the most likely reason
behind a dripping Delta or Peerless ball-type faucet.
The hot water enters through the left side, cold through
the right. The hole in front of those leads to the spout. |
| I carefully removed the seals with a
small flat-blade screwdriver. |
 |
 |
I covered the sink drains just in case I dropped
something. |
 |
The old seal (left). Note how
"squared-off" the shape is.
The new seal (right) has a more pronounced ridge near the
top.
|
 |
Packages of replacement seals also come with new springs. I
suppose it's a good idea to replace the springs, since they seem to
loose their pushing force over time.
| I pushed the new seals into place.
Note the little "knob" of brass about a half inch
to the right of my finger tip. This tab is used to guide the
movement of the valve ball.
|
 |
 |
Using a small screwdriver I scooped up a small
dab of silicone grease. This is a non-toxic lubricant for
plumbing parts. Silicone grease won't attack rubber seals and
it won't wash off.
I use this stuff on most plumbing valve repairs.
|
| I dabbed a little grease on the faces of the
seals. It only takes a tiny amount. |
 |
 |
I re-installed the ball. Note the guide slot
(red arrow). This goes on the right hand side, at least that's
what I've always seen. There is a tab on the faucet body that
goes into this slot (see picture 3 steps back). |
| I inserted the top piece (the shield). |
 |
 |
Note that the "shield" has a plastic
tab that fits into a slot in the side of the faucet body (red
arrow). |
| Anticipating some hassles with assembly, I
unscrewed the plastic ring from the chrome-dome. I wanted to
make sure that the screw-threads were clean and free from
obstructions. |
 |
 |
The new springs were much longer and stronger
than the old ones.
I had to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to push the
"shield" down (thus compressing the springs) while I
installed the chrome-dome and plastic ring-thing.
|
| I tightened the chrome-dome with Channel-Lock
pliers... |
 |
 |
...and then I tightened the plastic ring. I
moved the stick by hand while tightening the ring. |
One interesting feature of this design is that you can make the
handle more difficult or less difficult to move by tightening
or loosening this plastic ring.
Somebody asked me about the possibility of making a faucet more
difficult to turn on. Seems that their cat bumped the faucet handle,
turned the water on, and caused a flood because the sink wasn't
draining properly. Fascinating... the things pets can do.
| I installed the handle and tightened the set
screw.
This completes the repair.
|
 |
I turned the water supply back on and tested the faucet for
leaks.
Sidebar: Leakage Around The
Faucet Base
| A common problem with Delta
and Peerless faucets is leakage from either the top or
bottom of the spout base (red arrows). |
 |
Removing the spout is simple: after the ball has been
removed, just grasp the spout at the base and pull straight
up.
 |
There are two O-rings that
seal the rotating base of the spout, and these gaskets
have a tendency to leak over time. I've seen them leak
on faucets that were less than 2 years old. |
| These O-rings can be removed
(carefully) with a small flat-blade screwdriver.
I always smear a bit of silicone grease on these
O-rings before I re-install the spout, which should
reduce the wear on the gaskets. |
 |
|
|
Tools
Used:
- Basic Hand Tools
- Channel-Lock Pliers
- 1/8" Allen (Hex)
Wrench
|
Materials Used:
- Replacement Seals
- Silicone Grease
|
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