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| In
This Article:
Silicone is applied to the
back of a cover plate, then it is placed over the hole and a
wing-nut on the back is tightened. |
Related
Articles:
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| Skill Level:
1 (Very Basic) |
Time Taken:
10 Minutes |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
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After installing the new tub drain and overflow
tube, there were two open holes in the tub from the old
faucet.
The faucet had been replaced previously. See that article.
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| Boring Technical Note:
Modern bath tubs will not have holes for a faucet like
this. One feature of recent plumbing codes is the requirement
that faucets be placed in a way that is impossible to become
submerged in dirty water, in the event that a drain were to
become plugged.
Why? There is a rare but nasty phenomenon called
back-siphoning, which can draw dirty water into the supply
pipes. Read this brief
article for more information.
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This round cover plate costs about $2. |
| I applied a bead of clear silicone caulk around
the back rim. This caulk should not be necessary, but I wanted
to ensure a tight seal on the rough old tub surface. |
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The silicone also helps hold the cover in place
while I go around to the other side and install the hardware.
Duct tape would also hold the cover in place temporarily.
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| This is the hardware that holds the cover in
place. The bolt has a square head that fits in a slot, and the
"nut" is a big piece of sheet metal with threads. |
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The bolt is inserted into the slot in the back,
and the nut is installed and tightened by hand. The cover
tends to slip while the nut is tightened. |
| Task completed.
The dirty marks around the holes could not be removed with
any cleaner or rust remover chemicals. Since this house is
slated for major remodeling, I decided to ignore the problem.
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Tools
Used:
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Materials Used:
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Copyright © 2001, 2005
HammerZone.com
Written February 11, 2001
Revised January 12, 2005
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