There
are many different approaches to the problem of repairing/improving the
roof on a mobile home.
Some solutions I am aware of are:
1. Applying white asphalt to the
roof, at least at the seams of the metal panels and around vents and
other penetrations. Home Depot sells a product called DeWitt's Cool-Top
Roof and Mobile Home Coating. It sells for about $31 for a 5-gallon can,
and each gallon covers 60-90 square feet.
2. Applying an acrylic
elastomeric coating. Home Depot sells a product called "Kool
Seal" that is for painted metal and other materials. But, it is
not supposed to be used on flat roofs, or roofs with a slope less than
1/2" per foot. This product costs about $57 for a 5-gallon pail and
covers 80-100 square feet per gallon. Two coats are necessary. It has a
nice rubbery texture, and being white it should help keep your house
cool.
3. Install a
"roof-over" consisting of a "second skin" of
aluminum. I spoke with a fellow named Larry at True-Star Manufactured
Home Supply in Grand Rapids Michigan, and he told me about a system that
involves adding 2 inches of Styrofoam insulation (never a bad idea) and
interlocking aluminum panels with a couple of inches of overhang, which
keeps the water off the walls. He estimated that a 14x70 mobile home
could be done for under $3500. They get their materials from A1
Roof-Over of Gobles, Michigan (616-628-4771).
4. Build your own peaked roof
structure and install your own "second skin" roof. Steel
roofing is very light and can be installed easily. You could add
insulation too. But you'd need to be certain that the existing mobile
home structure could carry the added weight. Some older mobiles use 2x2
lumber for framing, which won't hold much. I've seen mid-80's model
mobiles with 2x6 walls and they are very sturdy. I once rented a mobile
home that had such a roof. It actually extended beyond the walls and
formed an enclosed porch. The landlord used steel roofing and added
insulation. It was quite comfortable, especially in winter.
5. Build a separate peaked roof
that rests on its own structure. This is very common in northern
Michigan where they get 2 to 5 feet of snow, even more in the winter
time. The approach is to use 4x4 posts about 8 to 10 feet apart, placed
just outside the walls of the mobile home. The posts are topped with
"beams" or "headers", that is, wide planks nailed to
the posts to provide long rails to support the roof trusses or rafters.
It's the same as building a narrow post-frame utility building. There
are probably lots of contractors that can do this for less than the six
grand for the rubber roof. And it's a decent DIY project... you can live
in the home while you are working on it.
I guess the answer depends on how much
you are willing/able to spend. The cheaper remedies may require constant
attention, but sinking a lot of money into a mobile home may not pay
back in the long run.
Bruce W. Maki, Editor.
