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Remedy For A Rusty Door

I have a nine year old home in Atlanta, GA and am moderately handy around the house. My current problem is that my front metal door has quite a bit of rust on the interior side. The bottom of the door has actually started to come apart and large portions of rust are falling out. 

 

My dilemma is whether or not I need to replace just the door itself or buy an entire pre-hung unit, thereby having to remove the old frame, sill etc. My local home store tried to sell me the entire unit saying that I'd never get the hinges from the old door frame to match a new door. Is this true? If so, should I consider hiring a professional to do this job?

Thanks for your help!

Margo R.


OUCH!

That door looks kind of expensive with those dual side lights (window panels).

And I'm sorry to say that your local home store may be right about needing to replace the entire unit. It could be very difficult to find another steel door whose hinges match the original... unless you found the exact same manufacturer... and even then it's no guarantee. 

It could cost $500-$1000 to replace that pre-hung unit. But there are other alternatives:

1. Buy a nice solid wood door and cut the hinge pockets with a router. This is tricky, I've never done it on a replacement door. A good carpenter should be able to do this in a few hours, so even if it cost you $100 to $150 in labor it might be worth it.

2. Investigate fiberglass doors. I've never worked with them, but they are gaining in popularity. And they don't rust, won't rot, and some can be stained with wood-tone colors. I'd ask around... and look beyond Home Depot and Lowes, ask at your local lumberyards.

3. Repair the existing door. I would try this first because it is cheapest and you can do it yourself. It's best to remove the door by taking out the hinge pins, though, so look for a nice day (or cover the entry with a tarp or plywood). Lay the door on a pair of sawhorses in the garage. Put old rags on the sawhorses to prevent them from scratching the exterior paint. That loose strip on the bottom is just a door sweep. Some doors have replaceable sweeps. Maybe yours is just ripped and needs to be replaced. But you can always buy a sweep that is screwed to the bottom of the inside of the door.

What I would do is this: 

  • Remove the sweep. 
  • Scrape off the loose paint and rust with a putty knife. 
  • Use a small orbital sander to sand down the ENTIRE door except the outside. Sand the interior and all the edges. Sand until all the rust is gone. 
  • Use sanding sponges or steel wool for the details. 
  • I would then apply a coat of quality primer (such as Rustoleum) from a spray can. When this is dry I would paint those surfaces with a can or two of spray paint. You want to use a quick-drying paint for this, or you'll be without a front door for too long. Read the can before you buy... some dry quite fast, some take many hours. It might take two cans to cover the areas you need to paint.



Spray paint has the disadvantage of over-spray, which may require laying drop-cloths on everything around the area.

Alternately I would consider brushing on a coat of oil-based paint instead of spray paint (but you'll still need primer... either a spray can or quart can of oil-based). With a fine bristle brush and careful strokes the brush marks will be hard to see. Oil based paint is better because it's harder... and the water in latex paint may aggravate the existing rust condition.

I'm willing to bet that if you do a careful job of sanding down the rust and cleaning off the dust, a good oil paint will last for 5 to 10 years before you see any more rust. The darker the color you use, the better it will be at hiding any future rust.

Personally, I would sooner repair serious rust damage (i.e. holes) with automotive Bondo than pay big bucks for a new door. This is no more difficult than auto body repair.

And remember... if you only get part of this job done by the end of the day, you can always stick the door back in the opening and resume work later. That is, unless the paint is still wet.

 

Bruce W. Maki, Editor.

 

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Compiled November 6, 2001