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Installing Tub Surround Over Old Plaster Walls

I was wondering what to do about my bathroom walls. We just bought a home that is over 100 years old exceptionally well built and the walls are still good... no major cracks. 

The bathroom originally did not have a shower and is very small, we are remodeling it with a pedestal sink and putting in a tub surround for a shower in the tub. 

The people before us used plastic tile that has now started to come off and you cannot replace. I have started to remove this and realized the walls in the bathroom are still plaster-and-lath. We really do not want to get involved in removing all the plaster-and-lath at this time. 

We are putting bathroom paneling up in the rest of the bath room. Should we put this on the walls under the tub surround or is there anything we can use to prime the plaster so the tub surround will stick?????

Thank you
George


Are you using that Masonite-based paneling that looks like tiles, and comes in 4x8' sheets? I helped a friend install that a few years ago... it looked pretty good, especially after we caulked the seams with white silicone. 

But if you use any wood-fiber-based paneling around your tub... I'm sure you will regret it within a few years. I've seen it done, and the surface always wears off around the tub, and then the water just destroys the backing. Personally, I would only use plastic or ceramic tile around a tub, or natural stone.

If I was faced with a project like yours, I would consider some of these options:

1. Peel off the old plastic tub surround and patch the plaster with an appropriate material. The trouble is, I'm not 100% sure what the appropriate material is. I've done minor plaster repairs with setting-type drywall compound, but for large areas I would wonder if hiring a professional plasterer might be the best bet. Professional plasterers use things like Imperial Basecoat plaster followed by a finish plaster that is made from a combination of gauging plaster (which you won't find at Home Depot) and lime. It takes a bit of practice to master this craft. But... since you are covering up the area, who cares if there are some flaws, right?

Once you have a reasonably smooth wall, I would prime the plaster with a quality oil-based primer, such as Cover Stain from Zinsser. The trouble with latex paints and primers is that they all take about 21 days to fully cure. Sure, they're dry within an hour, but latex paints are soft for three weeks. Oil based primer takes longer to dry but can be covered after a day with a solvent-based adhesive (such as Liquid Nails For Tub Surrounds) which is exactly what you would be using.

2. Cut away the plaster around the tub, possibly going all the way to the ceiling, and replace it with Moisture Resistant drywall. MR board is that green drywall that costs a little more than regular but holds up very well when wet.

3. Same as above but install 1/2" Durock behind the tub surround areas and then apply plastic or tile. Durock is the ONLY acceptable backing for tile walls.

4. Find a tub surround that does not lay on the wall. For a recent bath remodel we bought a tub surround by Sterling (a Kohler company). The product name is "Performa", I think. We bought it at a home center called Menard's, which has stores in the Midwest. This surround is pretty impressive... we installed it right against the bare studs, and installed the drywall so it overlapped the edges.

5. Remove the old tub and install a new three-piece fiberglass tub/surround kit. These are replacement units that are the same as those huge one-piece tubs that many new homes have. The beauty of these is that there is virtually no maintenance... they never get mildew in the corners because there are no corners to catch water. The seams can't leak because of their design. They are a really good idea for people who are doing a major bath project, but some bath rooms do not have enough space to assemble the unit and then slide it in place. I helped a friend install one once... luckily there was a hole in the wall so I could escape into the hallway after I assembled the fasteners in behind the unit. Otherwise I'd still be there, stuck behind his 6-foot tall tub/shower enclosure!


From my experience with problem walls behind tub surrounds, I would say "when in doubt, replace the plaster with Durock". I've seen some rather spongy-feeling walls that let the surround move, then the seams leaked, then the water got behind and damaged EVERYTHING. Whatever you do, you need a good solid wall before you apply the surround.

 

Bruce W. Maki, Editor.

 

 

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Compiled October 25, 2001