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I really don't know the answer to that question.
I suspect the answer lies in
whether Liquid Nails For Tub Surrounds will stick to
old tiles. Certainly the tiles will need to be scuffed up
some, because almost nothing sticks to shiny surfaces. Sanding
the tiles might work, though I'm sure the sandpaper will wear
out fast. Since you don't have much area to scuff, this is
worth trying.
If the adhesive says it will
adhere to tile, then go for it. Otherwise, doing a small test
would be a good idea. I would scuff up a small section of tile
and try gluing a small piece of plywood to the tile. Let it
dry for a few days and then see how much force is required to
peel it off. This is a judgment call, however, because I don't
know of any easy way to measure the amount of force required
to peel a piece of wood off the wall, nor do I know how much
bond strength is needed to hold the tub surround to the wall.
I guess it boils down to this: If the wood practically falls
off the wall, then gluing your surround won't work.
The only product I know of
that claims to stick to glossy surfaces is Zinsser's B-I-N
Primer Sealer, which is an alcohol based primer. (You'll need
either denatured alcohol or ammonia to clean your paint
brushes). A quart of this very versatile primer costs about
$6. I suppose a light scuff sanding followed by a coat of
B-I-N Primer would be my approach.
Since the surround is
normally caulked around the perimeter with silicone, the edge
treatment (if done carefully) should prevent the plastic sheet
from peeling away in the first place. And silicone should have
no problem sticking to tile, the painted wall, or the tub.
I would be tempted to scrape
the tiles off the wall, but if there's drywall underneath the
paper coating will get ripped badly. This can be repaired with
Gardz primer from Zinsser, but if the paper gets ripped all
the way through to the gypsum core, the strength of the wall
may be jeopardized. Then the idea arises of removing the
drywall and replacing it with new greenboard, which means
going all the way to the ceiling, and that means finishing
drywall corners, painting the entire room, yada yada yada...
this is getting way too involved!
Even if the old drywall
survives without much surface damage, there is still the
chance that the surface roughness will "telegraph"
through the sheet plastic surround. Of course, the joints in
the tile work could also telegraph through, so choose the
heaviest plastic you can afford.
Bruce W. Maki, Editor.
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