| In This
Article:
The basics of installing base cabinets:
Start in a corner, connect adjacent units by screwing the face frames
together, shim and screw to wall. Install filler strips as needed.
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Related
Articles:
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| Skill Level: 3 (Moderate) |
Time Taken: 3 Hours |
By Bruce W.
Maki, Editor
Off To A Slow Start:
While this article follows cabinet installation in a new house, the
installation process is the same for a kitchen remodel, once the old cabinets
have been removed.
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The kitchen when I first saw it. Note the strip of floor tiles
omitted next to the wall. This will require some filling and
shimming.
Another view.
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The kitchen designer made a nice computer-drawn plan, but
as we know with home construction... Nothing Ever Goes As
Planned.
The pipes for the kitchen sink.
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The first step in a base cabinet installation is finding the highest point in
the cabinet layout area. The highest point is the best point to start,
because from there all the other cabinets will need to be shimmed higher.
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The corner where we will begin.
The "Lazy Susan" corner unit that will be installed
first.
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I had to use a few scraps of tile underlayment to build up
the level of the floor.
I checked the levelness of the floor in both directions, adding
shims as necessary.
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The First Cabinet:
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The Lazy Susan has a cover panel to conceal the side. The
stove will go next to this cupboard.
I placed the components together to test their fit.
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The cover panel is clamped to the face frame of the Lazy Susan
and holes are drilled for 2-1/2" deck screws.
I had to mount 2x4 cleats on the wall to act as supports
for the counter.
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Installing these cleats is a standard procedure with all of the Lazy Susan
cabinets I have installed.
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The cover panel was fastened to the cleat with nails.
I included a cleat to connect the Lazy Susan to the wall,
to keep it from moving during construction.
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After the installation of the first Lazy Susan I turned my
attention to the other end of the cabinet run.
I installed some more scraps of tile underlayment to build
up the floor.
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The drawer base unit was set in place.
There was a tapered gap along the right side, even though
the base unit was perfectly level. It turned out that the wall
was out of plumb.
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| An example of a shim used to level a cabinet
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The sink base cabinet was set in place and the holes cut for
the water supply pipes (holes in bottom) and the drain (in back
panel)
The two base cabinets were connected together with 2-1/2"
cabinet mounting screws.
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This is an important concept in cabinet installation. Whenever
possible, I first connect adjacent cabinets together at the face
frame. I clamp the cabinets together, adjust the face frames
so they are perfectly flush, and drill holes for long screws,
such as 2-1/2" deck screws.
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The face frames connected tightly together.
Next, the two units were fastened to the wall. The screws
were driven into studs.
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The Second Lazy Susan:
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The second Lazy Susan went the same as the first: cleats mounted
to the wall, cover panel attached to the side, etc.
This unit had another base cabinet attached to it's side.
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The kitchen so far. The open space between the
cabinets along the right-hand wall is for a dishwasher. Dishwashers
fit in a standard 24" cabinet width, so our space is exactly
24" wide. |
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A filler panel connected to a tall 84" high pantry cabinet.
On one side of the refrigerator the plan showed a tall divider
panel... but the panel landed right in front of an outlet. Did
I mention that Nothing Ever Goes As Planned?
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I ended up moving the offending
outlet a few inches to the right. See
that article.
While the cabinet installation is far from complete, the base
cabinets are done. Follow along as I install
the counter tops.
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Tools Used:
- Cordless Drill/Driver
- Drill Bits
- 2' and 4' Levels
- Stud Finder
- Quick-Grip Clamps
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Materials Used:
- Cabinet Screws
- Deck Screws
- Shims
- Misc. 2x4's
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