| In This
Article:
Wood plugs are made with a special plug
cutter bit and inserted into holes, then sanded smooth.
|
Related
Articles:
|
| Skill Level: 2-3 (Basic
to Moderate) |
Time Taken: 5-10
Minutes Per Plug |
By Bruce W.
Maki, Editor
This short article describes how we plugged the screw holes in a hardwood
floor just after installation. This technique is applicable to many other
aspects of woodworking, such as furniture building and cabinet making.
 |
When the first and last strips of hardwood flooring were
laid, we had to drill holes in the boards so we could fasten them with
deck screws. |
These were 2-part holes:
- A small hole just big enough for the shank of the screw.
- A larger 3/8" diameter hole, big enough to allow the screw head
to disappear below the surface.
|
 |
The Secret Ingredient:
The key to plugging holes is the tapered plug cutter. We bought
a set of four plug cutters from Home Depot for less than $20. |
 |
We used the plug cutter in a small drill press. The cutter can also be
used in a hand-held drill but it is very tricky to get the cut started because
the bit tends to walk around. It helps to keep the cutter bit as close to
perpendicular as possible.
 |
This cuts a doughnut-shaped ring from the wood, leaving a
round stub in the center.
The plugs end up being slightly tapered, which helps them fit into the
hole more easily. |
The block of wood is just a short scrap of flooring. We often use
several different scraps of flooring to obtain a wide range of color and
lightness.
| We just pried the plugs out, using a small flat-blade
screwdriver.
It helps to force the screwdriver deep into the groove, so the plugs
break off at their base. This results in the longest possible plugs. |
 |
 |
We applied a dab of carpenter's glue around the plug. |
| And set the plug in the hole. |
 |
 |
A tap of the hammer drives the plug into the hole.
Not all of the plugs were as smooth and flush-looking as this one. (In
fact, this plug only looks flush, it's actually quite rough.) |
It should be noted that the smooth top end of the plug is the narrowest end,
so it goes head-first into the hole. Thus, the bottom of the plug (which is
rough because it was broken off the block of wood) is left sticking out of the
hole.
| The plugs were wiped with a wet sponge to remove the excess
glue.
These plugs only look smooth. They still need to be sanded. |
 |
 |
A close-up of a plug. We try to align the woodgrain, but
that does not always work out. |
| Some different lengths of plugs.
Care must be taken to ensure that the plug cutter goes deep enough, or
else the plugs may come out like the one on the left. |
 |
 |
These plugs were a little longer than the first plug we
pictured. All the extra wood has to be sanded down, which is no problem
with the right power tool. |
A very useful tool:
With the portable belt sander it took only a few seconds to sand down
each plug so it was flush with the surface. |
 |
An ordinary orbital sander might also work, as would hand sanding.
 |
The finished plugs are hard to see. If done right, the plugs
can literally disappear into the surrounding woodgrain. Such a feat
requires that the scrap be matched (for color and darkness) to the wood
surrounding each hole |
It is very tempting to use a chisel to shear off the plug. We have tried
that, and it sometimes peels away the fibers below the level of the surrounding
wood, leaving a rough dimple. We have determined that cutting plugs off with a
chisel is not worth the time savings.
| The last two rows of flooring had numerous plugs, but it
only took about five minutes to sand them all flush.
After the floor is sanded, these will barely be visible. |
 |
|
Tools Used:
- Plug Cutting Bit
- Drill Press or Power Drill
- Belt Sander
- Basic Carpentry Tools
|
Materials Used:
- Scrap Of Flooring Wood
- Carpenter's Glue
|
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