To trim out a window with basic 2-1/4" casing, four pieces of casing are mitered and joined at the corners to make a box. Then the entire unit is nailed in place.
Three pieces of colonial casing are joined in a U-shape and nailed around the door jambs. Dealing with warped wood poses some minor problems.
Andersen sells jamb extensions that are already milled to fit into the groove around their windows. Simply tap the jambs into place and drive nails in the pre-drilled holes.
I needed extension jambs wider than Andersen's regular jambs, so I bought some clear pine and cut a simple notch on my router table. I saved money too.
Since the walls were framed with 2x6's, the jambs on the pre-hung entry door weren't wide enough to reach the drywall inside. All I had to do was cut some wood to about 2 inches wide and nail it to some shims.
Wide baseboard is installed above a hardwood floor, using scarf joints and cope-cut ends. Problems with the uneven floor and imperfect corners are addressed.
Coped ends are tricky to cut and time-consuming, but the results are worth the effort. A miter saw and coping saw are the main tools required.
To create clean-looking trim, the nail holes need to be filled with putty and sanded. When all the gaps are caulked, the results are professional-looking.
Many homes built around the turn of the 20th century have an elegant type of trim above the doors and windows. We re-created this ornate casing from common millwork.
Traditional window sill and apron trim is installed. Side casings are installed, and the top section is fastened in place.
This odd, old house had only a narrow band of wall above the kitchen window, so a 2-foot fluorescent light was the only economical fixture that fit. To hide the ugly light, I built a valance from clear pine 1-by lumber.
Ornamental trim that runs along a wall doesn't just dead-end, it "returns" to the wall with short mitered pieces. But the short pieces are tricky to cut and join, so some creative solutions are required.
In trim carpentry, as in flooring, sometimes screws are needed to fasten things. Covering the screws is easy: Just get a plug cutter and make your own wood plugs to glue into the screw holes.
When the wall isn't plumb, the solution is either tapered jamb extensions or removing a bit of drywall. On this job we chose to carve away the wallboard so the casing wouldn't have a gap.
I knew from experience that this badly-cupped board wouldn't lay flat after I nailed it in place, so I decided to try a trick Id heard about: Cut a series of cuts halfway through the board, on the back face. It only took a few minutes and worked very well.
Rather than fill the room's only window with an air conditioner, I made an opening in the wall. The framing was the easy part... the trim was the tricky task.
An inner cover is made from two layers of plywood sandwiching some foam insulation. An outer cover is made and the two parts are screwed together to form a tight seal.
This shelf unit was made from knotty pine lumber that we almost threw away. After cleaning up the wood, cutting it into shelves and finishing the wood, I used a pocket screw jig for easy assembly.
A cabinet face-frame is assembled from pieces of 1x2 red oak, and then attached to the cabinet box made from oak-veneer plywood.
We brushed on chemical furniture stripper and scrubbed it well. Then we removed the stripper with a power washer and let the wood dry.
After the dresser was dry, we sanded all the exposed surfaces, using a random orbital sander and a detail sander.
This type of spray gun is something you'd use to paint a car, but it also works with most solvent-based stains, urethane, and lacquer.
Spray finishing takes longer to set up and clean up, but the work goes by much quicker and excellent results can be achieved.
The handles on this old dresser looked badly weathered. I applied some paint stripper to remove the clear coating, then use tarnish remover to clean the dull areas.
After buffing on a wire wheel, the handles were a nice bright brass... which I didn't like. So I did some chemistry experiments with common household materials and the results were surprising.
An explanation of the controls on a typical HVLP spray gun, and some tips on adjusting the spray gun. Cleaning the spray gun is also covered.
Outdoors, in the garage, in the basement, or find a professional spray booth. Some thoughts and cautions about the choice of where to spray.