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Lighting:
Installing A
Flush-Mount
Ceiling Light Fixture
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| In
This Article:
The mounting strap and
threaded tube are set to the proper height and installed.
Electrical connections are made and the fixture base is
secured to the mounting strap. Light bulbs and glass dome are
installed. |
Related
Articles:
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| Skill Level:
2 (Basic) |
Time Taken:
About 30 Minutes |
By
Bruce W.
Maki, Editor
As with all electrical projects, the power must be turned off to
the wires being worked on. This usually means turning off the
circuit breaker. Anybody who is dumb enough to work on live wires
deserves to get jolted.
I recommend a non-contact voltage tester (which looks like a fat
ball-point pen) to test wires for presence of voltage.
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My starting point: The ceiling junction
box had a temporary light fixture connected by twist-on
connectors (a.k.a. wire nuts) to the supply wires. |
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| The basic 13 inch diameter
close-to-ceiling flush-mount light fixture.
This package cost about $20 at Menard's... for two
fixtures. |
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The most important step is to measure the
height of the dome from a flat surface.
My question: Why can't the manufacturer tell me this?
Do they have huge variations from one unit to the next?
I measured about 5 inches. |
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| I adjusted the mounting strap and threaded
tube until the tube measured about 5 inches long, or
perhaps 1/8 inch longer. |
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|
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I tightened the nut to lock the threaded
tube in place.
If this tube isn't locked from turning, when I
install the final nut the tube might move. That's been a
big problem with other light fixtures. |
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| I removed the original screws from the
junction box.
This J-box was metal, so it came with mounting
screws. Plastic junction boxes aren't usually supplied
with screws. The light fixture, of course, came with
screws. |
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|
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Small detail:
The drywall surface ended up about 1/8 inch below the
metal box. Not a problem, but I needed to adjust the
threaded tube a little longer. |
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| I attached the threaded tube to the
junction box.
I used a cordless drill-driver (actually it's an
impact driver, not a drill) to drive the screws. |
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|
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I wrapped the ground wire around the green
ground screw on the mounting strap, and tightened the
screw. |
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| I wrapped the flexible stranded light
fixture wire around the ends of the supply wires, and
secured them with wire nuts®. (Or
twist-on wire connectors, as the trademark holder wants
me to call them) |
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|
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The wires have been connected (ground,
neutral, and hot) and the fixture is ready to be secured
to the ceiling. |
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| This washer and nut are supplied to hold
the fixture to the ceiling. |
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|
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I held the fixture up against the ceiling
with one hand and threaded the nut all the way up. |
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| Fixture base installed. |
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|
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I installed the light bulbs. |
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| I placed the globe over the threaded tube. |
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|
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And I installed the globe-holding threaded
thing (I guess it's called a finial).
The instructions show a nut being used in addition
to the finial, but I didn't use it. There didn't seem to
be enough room for the nut beneath the finial, and the
finial presses farther away from the hole in the glass,
which should reduce the chances of chipping or cracking
the glass.
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| Mission accomplished. |
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|
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Plenty bright for a hallway.
I may switch to a pair of 40 watt bulbs later, since
this is maybe too bright. I'd rather have the capacity
for lots of light, than not have enough light when the
fixture is used with the highest wattage bulbs allowed.
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Never exceed the highest wattage bulb that
the manufacturer recommends. Why? There is a risk of
overheating, which implies a risk of starting a fire. I have seen
wires that were charred from people using higher wattage bulbs than
allowed. Not good.
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Tools
Used:
- Cordless Drill/Driver
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Small Wrench
- Ruler or Tape Measure
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Materials Used:
- Flush-Mount Ceiling Light,
Westminster Lighting,
Menard's SKU# 351-1964
- Light Bulbs, 60 Watt (2)
- Wire Nuts (3)
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