 |
Installing AC-Powered Smoke Detectors
|
In
This Article:
The outer jacket on the 3-conductor
electrical cable is cut away. The ground wires are connected
together and attached to the metal J-box. The black, white
and red wires are stripped and connected to the wiring
pigtail provided with the new smoke detectors. The base
plate is installed and the smoke detector is mounted to the
ceiling. |
Related Articles:
|
| Skill Level:
2-3 (Basic to Intermediate) |
Time Taken:
About 30 Minutes Each |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
Start:
This article describes how
line voltage (AC-powered) smoke detectors are installed when the wiring
"rough-in" has
been completed and the drywall has been finished and
painted. While the electrical rough-in procedures are not
complicated, it is beyond the scope of this basic article.
At the end of this page I'll provide some links to other
information to help explain the rough-in process.
| Smoke
detectors can be purchased in "contractor packs"
like this 6-pack. Each smoke detector comes
with a base plate and a 3-wire pigtail that is
wired into the house wiring. |
 |
|
 |
My starting point for this project: After the
electrical "rough-in" has been completed and the
wallboard has been finished and painted. |
|
| I used a
sharp knife to carefully slit the outer jacket
on each cable. This metal ceiling junction box
has three 14-3G cables entering it. When
multiple AC smoke detectors are wired together,
3-conductor wire must be used.
The third wire is for interconnecting
with other smoke detectors so all
detectors will beep in the event one
detector senses smoke. |
 |
|
 |
After I peeled away the outer jacket, I
separated the individual conductors. |
|
| Metal
junction boxes must be grounded. There
usually is a threaded hole (red arrow) in the back of a
metal J-box that will accept a ground screw. |
 |
|
 |
I screwed a green ground screw (red arrow)
part-way into the hole, then I wrapped one of
the bare ground wires around the screw, and let
the end of the wire dangle so it could be
connected with the other ground wires. I
tightened the screw and made sure the wire was
snug. Note that a good half-circle of wire
needs to be beneath the screw head. |
|
| Then I
clipped the wires to the same length. The
wires need to stick out of the junction box by
at least 6 inches. I avoid leaving too much
wire sticking out, because then it's difficult
to pack all those wires into the J-box. |
 |
|
 |
I twisted a "wire nut" over the ends of the
wires. With three number 14 wires, I find that
the wires become twisted when I apply the wire
nut. With heavier gauge wires, or more wires, I
find it necessary to pre-twist the wires
with a pair of lineman's pliers. |
|
| Then I folded
the ground wires neatly and pushed them into the
junction box, leaving room for the remaining
wires. |
 |
|
 |
Using a pair of wire strippers, I stripped about
1/2" to 5/8" of insulation from the end of each
insulated wire. |
|
| I also
stripped some more insulation from the pigtail
wires that came with the smoke detector. This
is stranded wire, and I always strip stranded
wire slightly longer than the solid wires it's
being connected to. Next I twisted each
stranded wire so the individual strands would
stay together and not fray. |
 |
|
 |
I bundled together the three solid wires and the
stranded pigtail wire, then I twisted the ends
with a pair of lineman's pliers. |
|
| The smoke
detector pigtail after being connected to the
house wiring. Note that the yellow pigtail
wire gets connected to the red solid wire. |
 |
|
 |
Then I folded up all the wires and carefully
tucked them into the junction box. |
|
| I attached
the base plate to the junction box, using the
screws that came with the J-box. Sometimes the
J-box is too deep behind the drywall, and I need
to use longer screws. These are #8-32 machine
screws, which can be found at any hardware
store. |
 |
|
 |
The pigtail is connected to the back of the
smoke detector. Note: I am not aware of
any standard size/style of smoke detector
connector. Different brands of smoke
detectors use a different pigtail connector,
so if a detector needs to be replaced, and it's
a different brand, the pigtail will likely also
need to be replaced. |
|
| I plugged the
pigtail into the back of the smoke detector.
This just snapped into place. The red arrows
point to the holes that engage the tabs in the
base plate. |
 |
|
 |
The tabs (red arrows) need to be aligned with
the corresponding holes in the back of the smoke
detector. Easier said than done. |
|
| When I
finally got the tabs to line up, I twisted the
smoke detector into place. |
 |
|
Some Additional Tips:
 |
This is a "remodel box" or "old work junction
box", which is sometimes used in remodeling
projects. First a 4-inch hole is cut into the
wallboard and the electrical wire is fished
through the space behind the drywall. Then this
junction box simply clamps to the drywall.
Since this J-box is plastic, the ground wire
does not need to be attached to the box. Since
smoke detectors do not use a ground connection,
the ground wire in this 14-3G cable is not
needed. |
|
| I just folded
up the ground wire (red arrow) and tucked it
into the back of the plastic junction box.
It's never a good idea to cut off unused ground
wire... somebody else might change this box
someday and need the ground wire. |
 |
|
 |
When connecting stranded wire to a single copper
wire, I find it helpful to make a slight
"S"-shaped kink in the stripped end of each
wire. When the solid wire is perfectly
straight and connected to a stranded wire, I
find that the wire nut often falls off because
the stranded wire gets all bunched up in the
wrong spot. Making this kink in the solid wire
seems to help. |
|
| To fasten the
smoke detector base plate to this plastic
remodel box, I could not use the mounting holes
(B) that I used with the metal
J-boxes. The mounting screws (A) had to
be used with the slots in the base plate. |
 |
|
Supplying Power To The Group Of Smoke
Detectors:
The last smoke detector I installed was in
the basement, where the power was supplied to the smoke detector
portion of the circuit. I turned off the circuit breaker to this
circuit before doing any work. (All the earlier work was done on
a dead part of the circuit.)
 |
This ceiling box in the basement had two
electrical cables entering it:
A 14-2G cable on the left (marked "LINE IN") and
a 14-3G cable on the right (marked "OUT").The
LINE IN cable begins at a junction box that is
part of the basement lighting circuit. Note that
this wire is NOT SWITCHED, and it is
NOT PROTECTED BY A GFI (GROUND-FAULT
INTERRUPTER). |
|
Some Thoughts On The "Rough
Wiring" Procedures:
In my case, I added new wiring to
AC-powered smoke detectors while I remodeled the second
floor of my 1½ story house, so I was able to get above the
first-floor ceiling and cut holes in the ceiling drywall for
round metal junction boxes, and drill holes in floor joists
to run the new 14-3G wire to each junction box. I also was
able to fish some wire through the sloped ceilings on the
second floor and install "remodel boxes" in the flat section
of the ceiling, without cutting away any drywall. Running
electrical cable in an existing house can be easy or
difficult... it all depends on the circumstances.
These older articles may
help explain some of the procedures used when adding new
wiring to an existing house:
However, if you intend to do
your own wiring, I must advise you to seek more
information than what is published on HammerZone.com.
There are many good books available on the subject of
house wiring. I like the book
"Wiring A House" by Rex Cauldwell, published by
Taunton Press. This book is good for the serious
do-it-yourselfer, and may be available at Home
Depot and/or Lowe's. There are many lighter-duty books
available, which might be better to start with.
When adding any new wiring, you should obtain an
electrical permit and inspections.
Before
you hurt yourself, read our Disclaimer. |
|
Choice Of Circuit For Smoke
Detectors:
This is my understanding of the
rules and/or recommendations for smoke detector
circuits: - Smoke detectors
should not be on the same circuit as receptacles
(outlets). Why? Because some heavy-current-drawing
appliance could be plugged into the outlet and trip the
circuit breaker, rendering the smoke detectors
powerless. - Smoke detectors
should not be used on a circuit that is dedicated to
just smoke detectors, with nothing else on the circuit.
Why? Because if the circuit breaker gets tripped, there
will be no unworking lights or outlets to alert you of
any problem. - Smoke detectors
should be connected to a lighting-only circuit.
- Some electricians prefer to connect smoke detectors to
whatever lighting circuit is used for any 3-way lights
in the house (such as stairway or hallway lights). Since
3-way switch wiring typically involves 14-3 wire, and
smoke detectors need 14-3 wire, it makes sense to group
these together. If the circuit breaker ever gets
tripped, you will know something is wrong because one or
more lights won't work. - In
theory all this concern over tripped circuit breakers
shouldn't matter because today's electrical code
requires AC-powered smoke detectors with battery backup.
I guess that the National Electrical Code people don't
want to rely on battery power. Or... these code rules
were written quite a few years ago, when AC smoke
detectors were common but battery-backup AC-powered
detectors were not common. |
|
More Info:
|
|
|
- Utility Knife
- Diagonal Wire Cutters
- Wire Strippers
- Needle-Nose Pliers
- Lineman's Pliers
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Nutdriver, 5/16"
|
Materials Used:
- Smoke Detector, AC Powered With
Battery Backup
- Twist-On Wire
Connectors (Wire Nuts)
- Ground Screws
- 8-32 Machine Screws, Assorted
Lengths
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|