| In
This Article:
Slider door jambs are
assembled and installed in the opening. Fixed and sliding
panels are installed, and trim details completed. |
Related
Articles:
|
| Skill Level:
3 (Moderate) |
Time Taken:
4 Hours |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
Assembling The Anderson Replacement Sliding
Door:
 |
First, we read the instructions. Then we
laid out all the parts on a flat surface. The frame consists
of four heavy aluminum extrusions |
We took a lot of photos of the door assembly, but they are
difficult to understand unless this particular door is in front of
you. We will just show some highlights of the assembly process.
 |
The bottom of the sill had holes for screws that
attach to the sides. |
 |
The top-to-side connection is well-designed and sturdy.
The pieces fit very well. |
 |
 |
For the side-to-sill connection, Andersen
provides a tube of silicone caulking. |
 |
 |
There were five screws used at each corner.
Andersen knows how to build sturdy door frames. |
 |
 |
Four screws connect each top corner.
Once assembled, we were impressed with the stiffness of the
frame. There seemed to be almost no chance of the frame
getting badly out of square during installation. |
Prior to installing the door frame a bead of silicone caulking
was run along the bottom of the sill and along the floor underneath
the door.
 |
The frame was tilted into place and held at the
top with one screw. |
 |
The bottom was double checked for level.
The side jambs and header (top) jamb were checked for plumb
and level. Shims were added where necessary. The corner
diagonals were checked to make sure the frame was perfectly
square. |
 |
 |
There was a large gap at the top jamb. We nailed a piece of
1x4 to the header to fill in this gap.
Andersen provides a top cap to cover the jamb and keep
water out. |
 |
 |
The top cap had a flange that goes up and under the siding.
But the flange was too wide for this job. |
 |
 |
So we used tin snips to trim the flange. The flange is
supposed to go under the siding, but we could barely pry up
the aluminum J-channel without destroying it. We were able to
get a small overlap
There are also side flanges to cover the edges |
 |
 |
Screws were driven in to secure the jamb to the structure.
The fixed pane was installed and held in by a pair of metal
clips. |
 |
 |
A the bottom of the fixed pane a few screws were driven
into the sash to fasten it.
Next, the sliding pane was installed. With most sliding
doors, the top slides up into a groove and then the
bottom is placed on the track (The horizontal ridge in the
photo) |
 |
The roller height was adjusted with a screwdriver.
Andersen uses these little caps to cover the adjustment
hole. |
 |
 |
Next the door handle was installed.
The door latch was installed. |
 |
 |
There is a machined notch for the catch mechanism
The catch is quite elaborate and can be adjusted. |
 |
This concluded the major installation work for the sliding door.
The screen was installed along with it's latch mechanism. The inside
door casing was replaced.
 |
Outside, we had to fill in between the door
frame and the original aluminum siding with some strips of
wood. The strips were ripped on the table saw and nailed in
place with finishing nails. |
 |
After installing the filler trim we gave it a coating of primer.
We have installed several sliding doors, but this was the first one
that needed assembly of the frame. We give Andersen the highest
possible marks for their excellent engineering and careful
consideration of details. Many companies make windows and patio
doors but we have seen none better than Andersen. And we are not being
paid to say that.
|
Tools
Used:
- Cordless Drill/Driver
- 4' Level
- Tin Snips
- Saw
- Finish Nailer
|
Materials Used:
- Replacement Slider Door
Kit
- Silicone Caulk
- 1x4 Filler Material
|
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