| In
This Article:
The frame of a vinyl slider
door is set into its opening, squared up and shimmed, then
nailed and screwed secure. The fixed and sliding panels are
installed, and then the handle. |
Related
Articles:
|
| Skill Level:
3 (Moderate) |
Time Taken:
1½ Hours |
By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
Installing a sliding patio door is a quick and fairly simple
process... once the rough opening has been prepared. Read Framing
The Rough Opening to see that step.
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The first step in the door installation is to lay the frame
face down on the ground in front of the rough opening. A bead
of caulking is applied around the top and side nailing
flanges, according to the instructions.
Also, a bead of caulk is applied to the sill area where the
door will go. |
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It is possible to install one of these doors with only one
person, but we don't recommend it.
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The door was placed in the opening and one 2" roofing
nail was used to hold the upper right corner.
Then a 4' level was placed across the top frame to ensure a
straight and level jamb. Nails were installed in the mid
section of the top jamb and at the top left corner. |
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The instructions for this and many other doors and windows say to
use 2" galvanized roofing nails. We don't hammer the nails
completely in until the door frame has been set exactly.
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Once the top flange was straight and true, we
measured the diagonals to check for squareness.
Making adjustments is a simple matter of pushing the bottom
flange to the left or right. |
 |
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This vinyl door frame had a tendency to
warp inwards a little, making a slight "hour-glass"
shape. Once the overall frame was squared up, we checked the
side jambs for plumb. The middle of the jamb had to be pushed
outward to make the jambs straight. Roofing nails held the
jambs in place. |
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(The level appears warped in these pictures because of the
camera's wide-angle lens)
Once the sides were plumbed, all the nails were pounded in
completely, and the remaining nails were installed. The instructions
said to space the nails 12" apart or less.
 |
We had to put a few shims under some parts of the sill, to
keep it from rocking.
The frame installed in the rough opening, before the glass
doors were installed. |
 |
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The instructions said to install screws through the sill
into the structure, so we drilled a few holes in the vinyl
frame.
We put a dab of caulking on each screw hole to prevent
water from getting under the fastener. |
 |
 |
The screws were driven in with a cordless drill/driver.
We used a few shims under the sill to make it solid. |
 |
 |
Now the glass doors are ready to be put in. The handing had
to be switched on this door, so the rollers had to be removed
from the bottom and installed on the other end. Only one
little screw held them in place.
The rollers are adjustable with a Phillip's screwdriver, to
make the door ride higher or lower. |
 |
 |
These doors are aluminum, and there is a roller pocket
milled into each corner. The top end has no rollers.
Door installation merely involves pushing the top end up
inside the groove and resting the bottom on the track so the
rollers ride on the rounded rail. |
 |
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The roller height is adjusted with a Phillips screwdriver.
This is the latch mechanism. |
 |
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The latch is inserted in the pocket and held in place with
two flat-head screws.
The lock lever is slipped into it's hole. |
 |
 |
The latch sticks out and grabs a metal plate attached to
the door jamb.
The two-piece handle is held together by two long machine
screws. |
 |
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The handle is assembled on the door.
The striker mechanism is a sturdy metal plate with a
plastic shim. Two long sheet metal screws anchor the striker
to the wall framing. |
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There are two dimples in the plastic jamb where the striker
plate goes.
The striker is installed with a cordless drill/driver. |
 |
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The fixed panel is installed from
the outside. Like the other panel, the top goes up inside the
channel and then slides down a bit so the bottom rests on the
sill. |
 |
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Screws are installed on the inside to secure the fixed
panel to the jamb.
The final product. All that remains is to add some trim
around the door and caulk the gaps. |
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| WARNING:
If you are going to undertake a project this big, make sure
you completely understand all the steps involved. Consult your
local building department and check if permits are required.
We encourage our readers to look at other competent sources
for second opinions, because the work shown here may not be
applicable to your home. |
Follow the Siding
and Trim Repair around the sliding door.
|
Tools
Used:
- Caulk Gun
- Cordless Drill/Driver
- 4' Level
- Hammer, Tape Measure
|
Materials Used:
- Vinyl Sliding Door
- Deck Screws
- Nails
- Caulk
|
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