Replacing A Window Screen

The torn fiberglass screen is removed from a storm door and replaced with new screen and spline material.

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I used a screwdriver to pry up the end. I found it easiest to work on a rug on the floor.

The spline had been cut at each catch, so I used a scratch-awl to pick at the end and pry it up.

The old screen was simply pulled up from the frame.

I bought a 25 foot roll of fiberglass screening because I have several screens to make. Smaller rolls are available at not much of a savings.

I unrolled the new screening next to the old piece, and cut the mesh about 1/2 inch longer.

There are two common diameters of spline material, .175" and .125". This is the larger size. Luckily it fits the groove in the old frame.

Note the ribs around the spline. These probably keep the spline in place.

I left about 1/4" overlap on the first corner.

The spline roller is used to push the rubber spline into the groove.

The spline roller looks like a double-ended pizza cutter. One roller has a groove. This end is used the most.

This tool costs about $2.50 at Home Depot.

The spline is laid out along the first groove and then pushed into place with the roller.

I had the best results when I used two hands on the roller. It takes a fair amount of force to push the spline into the groove.

I looks like I might have cut the screening too small.

Once the spline was inserted up the the second corner I realized that I did have enough screen (but barely).

The spline is in place on all four sides.

A sharp knife is used to cut the spline.

The pizza roller is used to finish inserting the spline.

Notice the slight warp to the long side of the frame. The tightness of the screen may have flexed the frame into an hourglass shape.

I'll ignore the warped frame and continue. The excess is trimmed off with a sharp knife.

The finished product. I would be done if the screen had no special pins for holding it in place.

The little plastic sleeve is pressed onto the pin.

The spline is pressed back in place with a screwdriver.

The gap is just a bit too big to keep out bugs. (I didn't claim to be an expert, did I ?)

 So, I took the screen back out and removed only the two pieces of spline in the middle of the long frame rails. (Because of the cuts made for the hold-in pins, the spline is now in segments.) I carefully straightened the aluminum frame tubing.

Whew! There was just enough screen to fit. After my first attempt the frame was about 1/2" narrower in the middle than the top or bottom.

The splines were re-installed, with a lot less tightness to the screening material. The frame ended up being about 1/8" narrower in the middle. The gap at left is good enough for me.

The finished product looks much better than before. Total time, including fixing my goof-up, was under an hour.

Tools Used:

• Screwdriver, Flat Blade
• Scratch-Awl
• Sharp Knife
• Scissors
• Screen Spline Tool

Materials Used and Cost:

• Screening - $1.20
• Spline - $0.50
• Total - $1.70