The rough opening is prepared and the pre-hung door is tilted into place and fastened. Shims are placed in the jambs to create a uniform gap between the door and frame.
The door jambs are trimmed shorter, braces are tacked in place, and shims are nailed to the rough opening.
The door is placed in the rough opening and the hinge jamb is adjusted to make it plumb, then nailed to the framing. The striker jamb is adjusted and fastened.
When we needed a skinny 22 inch door, we ripped down a 24 inch solid wood door blank and bought a door jamb kit. We used a simple fixture to rout the door hinge pockets and made our own pre-hung door.
This extra-skinny solid-wood door is installed in a tight opening, with very little room for error.
Sometimes the flooring ends up being thicker than expected, and the only solution is to slice off the bottom of the door.
Old raised-panel doors sometimes come unglued, then the pieces separate, and the door starts to sag. But there's a fix for that.
After this house was broken into (by the owner, who was locked out) the solution was to either replace the entire 6-foot door or repair the damaged door jamb.
Replacing a torn screen is surprisingly easy. Making sure the metal frame doesn't bend is the hard part.
After removing the trim, I cut away a section of rotted door jamb and fastened blocks of treated lumber in place. Not an elegant fix but better than nothing.
For smaller amounts of rot damage, 2-part epoxy often is the best solution... as long as there is enough good wood to bond to.
With a little care and technique, a steel door can be painted quickly without drips and sags.
The trim is sanded, caulked, and given a coat of good-quality primer before the finish coat of paint is applied.
A pair of holes are drilled for the lockset, and the latch recess is chiseled out. The latch is installed and the two halves of the door knob are assembled. The striker plate is installed to complete the job.
A broken Peachtree brand entry lockset is removed and a new one installed.
The center point for the deadbolt is carefully laid out and the hole is drilled with a bi-metal hole saw capable of cutting light-gauge steel.
The door on this old garage was a piece of junk, so we replaced it with a new steel door. Since the garage was so small, we used an outswinging door to leave more room for the family car.
The brick-mould trim is pried off and the fasteners securing the door jambs are removed.
After only 15 years, this sliding patio door had begun to fall apart, so we removed the old door and repaired some rot damage in the floor structure.
An Andersen slider door kit is assembled and installed in the existing rough opening.
The new rough opening is laid out, temporary bracing is installed, the studs are cut and a new header and trimmer studs are installed. The old window is removed and the siding is cut away.
The frame of the vinyl sliding door is set in the opening, squared up, and shimmed. The fixed and sliding door panels are installed, then the handle is installed.
1x4 trim boards are fastened to the wall and special flashing is installed.
An old wooden basement access door is demolished, some new concrete is poured to form a smooth level rim, and a new Bilco steel door is installed.
To improve summertime ventilation, we installed a roll-up screen door between the house and garage.