Shower surround. Bath Remodel:

Installing A Neo-Angle Shower
Part 2 - The Plastic Shower Surround

 
In This Article:

The plastic shower surround is glued to the walls, the shower faucet installation is completed, and the joints are caulked.

Related Articles:
Skill Level: 3 (Moderate) Time Taken: 1.5 Hours

By , Editor

Continued From Part 1:

This article describes the process of installing the plastic shower surround, completing the installation of the shower faucet, and caulking the gaps.

The moisture-resistant drywall had been installed, finished and given two coats of quality latex primer.

 

I laid out the bottom channel of the glass enclosure to see where the ends would lie.

 

I marked the location of the channel on the base, and then I drew a vertical line on the wall, about 1/4" to the right. This will serve as a guide for the installation of the wall surround material.

 

I cleared a section of floor and laid down one of the two sheets of plastic that came with the shower assembly.

 

Drilling hole in tub surround for faucet valve. I drilled a 4-1/2" hole for the faucet cut-out. As careful as I was, I managed to drill this incorrectly. You know the drill... measure twice, cut once.

 

I applied Liquid Nails For Tub Surrounds to the wall, only in the area that will be covered by the sheet of plastic.  Applying glue to tub or shower surround.

 

The plastic sheet was stuck to the wall... and then peeled back off. The instructions on the tube of Liquid Nails recommend this for faster drying. When the sheet is peeled back there are thin strands of glue that dry very quickly, so after a couple of minutes the sheet can be pushed back in place and then it is stuck permanently.

 

The edges of the plastic sheet are hard to discern in this photo. Note the hole around the shower faucet is a little off-center. This small mistake caused no problems. Whew! 

 

The adhesive was applied for the second side.

 

After applying the sheet and peeling it away, notice how the glue spreads out and spreads thinly. A minute or two of exposure to air will make this glue dry much quicker.

 

The corner section was glued to the wall, peeled back off, and then the release paper was removed from the self-adhesive strips along the edges. Then the corner was put back in place and pressed firmly to make the adhesive hold well.

That completed the installation of the plastic shower surround.

Completing The Shower Faucet:

The Moen shower faucet had been installed and tested weeks earlier during the plumbing rough-in phase.

 

A plastic insert and metal trim piece were slipped over shaft. The teeth or notches on the inside of the plastic piece are for a special anti-scald feature that allows the homeowner to prevent a faucet from delivering purely hot water.

 

The outer face plate was installed over the shaft trim.

 

The edge of the shower surround corner segment interfered with the face plate, so I used a sharp knife to carefully cut the plastic surround.

 

Two screws were installed to attach the face plate to the faucet valve body.

 

This metal-and-plastic assembly was inserted into the shaft. Notice the fine teeth. By adjusting the position of this piece, the homeowner can make the valve handle hit the end of it's travel before the valve is opened to full hot. This reduces the shower's water temperature to something below the water heater's temperature.

 

The handle was installed.

 

There is a small threaded hole in the underside of the handle. A set screw inside this hole clamps the handle to the metal bracket on the shaft.

 

The set screw is installed with an Allen wrench that is supplied with the faucet.

This completes the faucet installation.

The Shower Head Outlet:

This dead-end pipe was installed during rough plumbing.

 

The pipe was removed with a pipe wrench.

 

The shower elbow pipe was installed. Pipe thread compound was applied to the threads.

 

The elbow is carefully turned with a pipe wrench. It is inevitable that some scratching occurs to the chrome-plated pipe.

 

The shower head is installed with a crescent wrench.

This completes the finish plumbing for the corner shower.

Caulking:

Silicone caulking was applied to the seam where the wall surround met the floor basin.

 

The key to good caulking is to use your longest finger, then dip it in water... 

 

... and smooth out the bead of silicone. 

The technique that works best for me is to keep all fingers extended (not curled up) and to keep my elbow close to the the joint while I drag my finger along it.

 

I know the caulk smoothing is working right when there is only a small amount of caulk remaining on my finger.

 

This bead of silicone is too big and the bead does not touch the sides in one spot. Sometimes I can work with this problem, by spreading the caulk in multiple passes, pressing a little deeper each time.

 

The smoothed caulking. I only use "kitchen and bath" silicone for these locations, because it has mildew resistant additives.

 

The shower installation so far. All that remains is to install the glass enclosure.

See the installation of the glass corner shower enclosure.

 

Tools Used:

  • 4-1/2" Hole Saw
  • Heavy-Duty Drill
  • Caulk Gun
  • Sharp Knife
  • Pipe Wrench
  • Crescent Wrench

Materials Used:

  • Shower Surround
  • Liquid Nails For Tub Surrounds (2 or 3 Tubes)
  • Faucet Components
  • Pipe Thread Compound
  • Kitchen/Bath Silicone

 

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Copyright 2000, 2005  HammerZone.com

Written October 6, 2000
Revised January 3, 2005